Beyond the aged-beef programme, there are hand-cut beef empanadas, a 500g Hereford ojo de bife, a Rubia Gallega chuleta aged 250 days, and a tartar aged 15 months. The wine list is exclusively Argentine, organised by terroir, Mendoza, Patagonia, Salta, and diners pick their own steak knife before the meat even arrives.

Argentine brothers Martín and Joaquín Narváiz opened Lana on Calle Ponzano in 2022, and within three years it had become one of Madrid's reference grill restaurants. The Academia Madrileña de Gastronomía gave it its international-cuisine award in 2025, it holds two Repsol Soles, it is recommended in the Michelin Guide, and in 2026 it climbed to No. 5 on the World's 101 Best Steak Restaurants list, up from 18th. The carta is dedicated to the family: to those who taught them the trade, commitment and sacrifice.

The grill, fired with Argentine quebracho wood, works in full view at one side of the small room, and the kitchen dry-ages most of its own beef. Boneless cuts come from La Pampa in Argentina, sold by the 500 g piece: Angus bife de chorizo or ojo de bife at €100, and Wagyu at €150. Bone-in chuletas are priced by the kilo: an Extra chop of mixed-breed cow at €140, the Selección Lana chop of Rubia cow from Spain and Portugal at €190, and the Selección Lana ox chop at €310. The owners and sommelier walk each table through the breeds, and diners choose their own steak knife before the meat arrives; the Lana knife can be bought for €45.

Starters run from knife-cut beef empanadas (€9 each) and Marta's vitel toné to grilled mushrooms, suckling-lamb croquettes, lamb tripe, caviar lentils with pickled lamb tongue, morcilla, chorizo criollo, chinchulines and veal sweetbreads. Sides include Palermo peppers, chips fried in beef fat, and fried eggs with potatoes, and desserts include a sheep's-milk flan and sheep's-milk ice cream with figs.

There's one sitting per service, so nobody is watching the clock. Before you choose, there's a proper lesson at the meat table in front of the grill: Martín talks through muscles, marbling, breeds and ageing, the difference between an ojo de bife, a Galician ox and wagyu, and the suppliers behind them, such as Pampeana, Lyo and Discarlux. The questions are part of it, from what you ate yesterday to exactly how you like your meat cooked. The brothers say they reject around a hundred loins to find the right one, and every visit is recorded, so a returning guest's cut, cooking point and wines are remembered next time. By summer 2026 the waiting list was running at about three months.

The meal starts with bread made from recovered heritage flours and a chimichurri of fresh herbs. The steak tartare is barely dressed so the beef leads, the sweetbreads go straight onto the embers and get just a little caviar, and the house cecina is aged 18 months and sliced almost transparent. In July 2026 the brothers were preparing to serve bone-in Argentine beef for the first time, an import that foot-and-mouth restrictions had until then ruled out.

The wine list is exclusively Argentine and organised by region, from Mendoza to Patagonia and Salta, with a long section of sweet and fortified wines, from late-harvest Torrontés and Malbec to Zuccardi's Malamado and a 2007 Rutini, many by the glass.

Lana is open Monday to Saturday, 13:30 to 15:15 and 20:30 to 22:15, and is closed on Sunday. Book through the online reservations page on the restaurant's site, call 626 869 855, or email hola@restaurantelana.com.