Modern, creative Mediterranean cooking. The carta runs from starters like bocaditos, buñuelos de brandada de bacalao and ensaladilla rusa through mains such as callos de ternera, arroz de rabo de toro and a 30-day aged Frisona sirloin. The full carta sits on the restaurant's own homepage.

The restaurant sits in a quiet alley at the end of Calle Costa Rica, a detail its own site flags with exclamation marks. It opened in the late 2010s as a neighbourhood casa de comidas and soon drew people from across the city. The space is small: a tiny bar, a dining room of around ten bare wooden tables and, in the warmer months, a terrace in the traffic-free alley. The house motto is 'comer y no ser comedido', roughly, eat without holding back.

The carta is short, around twenty dishes built for sharing, plus daily suggestions that follow the season, and some dishes have been on since the first weeks. Meals start with a cream as an aperitif, hot in winter and cold in summer. Signatures include the bocaditos, crisp soufflé bread topped with a fried quail egg, pancetta and Espelette pepper; salt-cod brandada buñuelos; and a saam of battered turbot with kimchi mayonnaise and lime, wrapped in lettuce and eaten by hand. There's a smoked sardine with pisto and apple, steak tartare, 'grandma's curry' meatballs and callos, and more elaborate mains such as a pig's-trotter terrine with langoustines and a pigeon with potato purée and grapes.

Desserts lean on Silvia's love of pastry: a pavlova with mascarpone and red fruits, a burnt-cream millefeuille, a thin apple tart and bread with chocolate, olive oil and salt. The wine list is short, well chosen and fairly priced.