The kitchen is built around the brasa: aged Argentine and national meats, fish and seasonal vegetables cooked over embers, with a wine list leaning on Ribera, Rioja, Albariño and Godello.

The carta opens with Cantabrian anchovies on pan de cristal, a truffled tortilla made to order, ensaladilla with a fried egg, torreznos de Soria, homemade croquetas (ham, aged-chop with chimichurri, or mixed), squid with roast-garlic alioli and Idiazabal fritters. For those who want the grill from the first bite: Burgos morcilla, Arbizu chistorra, a grilled leek with romesco, criollo chorizo, artichokes with Ibérico-ham salt and grilled sweetbreads. There are rice dishes too, from black rice with grilled squid to a fisherman's fideuà.

The main grill burns wood and charcoal. Meats run from a house burger of aged beef and Ibérico secreto to Angus lomo bajo (350 g, €31.90), an Argentine Angus ojo de bife (300 g, €36.90), a 500 g lomo of selected beef aged 30 to 40 days (€61.90) and tomahawk by the kilo. Fish means wild corvina loin and a sea bass a la espalda for two. Sides include ember-roasted sweet potato and confit Lodosa peppers, and desserts run from rice pudding to a torrija on butter bread with leche merengada ice cream.

A dining room seating up to 96, warm with wood and fire, for family meals and celebrations; a terrace mirador with a bar and high and low tables looking out over Madrid, for tardeo and sunset drinks; and a porch terrace overlooking the horses, which can be glazed and heated in winter. The whole restaurant or a terrace can be booked for weddings, communions and company events, with menus designed for each.