Nieves Ye
Chef-owner of Don Lay, a Cantonese restaurant in Madrid known for its 24-hour lacquered duck and daily handmade dim sum.
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Nieves Ye is the chef and owner of Don Lay, a Cantonese restaurant in Madrid's Castellana neighbourhood. Born in Zhejiang, China, she moved to Spain at 13 with her father, who ran a restaurant there before his death in 2001. Ye opened Don Lay in 2002 on Paseo de Extremadura in his memory, closed it in 2015, and reopened in 2019 on Calle de Castelló. The kitchen is known for its 24-hour lacquered duck and handcrafted dim sum.
Biography
Early years
Nieves Ye was born in Zhejiang, China, and moved to Spain at age 13 with her siblings and father, who had run a restaurant in China and worked to bring Chinese gastronomy to Spain.
Career
Her father died in 2001, a year before Don Lay opened. Ye opened the restaurant in 2002 on Madrid's Paseo de Extremadura, continuing the vision they had shared, then closed it in 2015 and reopened it in 2019 on Calle de Castelló as a larger, more upscale space. She still runs Don Lay there in 2026.
Philosophy
Ye has described Don Lay's success as coming from "this combination of Spain's unparalleled raw materials merged with ancient Chinese preparation techniques." The signature lacquered duck takes 24 hours: ducks from sustainable Irish farms are marinated with ginger, scallions, star anise and Sichuan pepper, then the skin is treated with Chinese vinegars, marc brandy and caramel, combining Cantonese meat technique with a Peking-style approach to the skin. Dim sum is handmade daily, running from xiao long bao to dumplings filled with lobster, beef and langoustine, or white prawn and black truffle.
Restaurants
Nieves Ye in our guides
Editorial guides featuring Nieves Ye’s restaurants.
Frequently asked
Who is the chef at Don Lay?
Nieves Ye, who was born in Zhejiang, China, is the chef and owner of Don Lay, a Cantonese restaurant in Madrid's Castellana neighbourhood.
When did Nieves Ye open Don Lay?
In 2002, on Madrid's Paseo de Extremadura; the restaurant closed in 2015 and reopened in a larger space on Calle de Castelló in 2019.
What is Don Lay known for?
Cantonese lacquered meats and handmade dim sum, including a signature duck that takes 24 hours to prepare.
How long does it take to prepare Don Lay's lacquered duck?
24 hours. Ducks from sustainable Irish farms are marinated with ginger, scallions, star anise and Sichuan pepper, then the skin is treated with Chinese vinegars, marc brandy and caramel.
Is Nieves Ye still running Don Lay?
Yes, she continues to run Don Lay in Madrid's Castellana neighbourhood on Calle de Castelló, where it has operated since 2019.
Where was Nieves Ye born?
In Zhejiang, China; she moved to Spain at age 13 with her father and siblings.